Turkey highlights

Day one

Calis - We arrived in Calis at sunrise. Looked over the mountains surrounding our beach resort. One of them is snow capped.

It was already in the 30 degree range. Lay in a sticky sweaty mess and slept until it got too hot.

Dressed and walked along the beach. George lay sunbaking and I sat down for about 1 minute but then I couldn't stand it anymore. The beach was calling me. That winking laughing light! Had my first swim in a sea for more than 18 months. Didn't want to come back in.

George and I raced. George won. Went back to hotel and loved up, and it was time for another cool down swim. A few beers - Efes - with the locals, including the grabby Ebow. Wandered down to beach for night time bbq. Smoked Turkish pipe and listened to Turkish music. Little girl couldn't stop staring at me. Told me I was beautiful. George agreed.

Day two

Fethiye - After traditional Turkish breakfast we caught the Dolmus (which is Turkish for "full" as we were soon to understand) to Fethiye and shopped for boat cruises. Found one close to what we wanted. G haggled for a better deal and they threw in free transport. Doesn't seem to matter that it's the busy season and there is always another punter willing to pay more, the Turks love to haggle.

Then to Oludeniz, the beautiful lagoon that features on every Turkish travel poster (see above). Snorkelled with G. He loved it so much, snorkelling and fish gazing. Great thing to share.

Dinner at Fethiye and a spot of shopping. Necklace gift. The last bus back to Calis.

Day three

Olypmus - Up and packed early. A quick dip in the pool and then on the Dolmus to Olympus.

Arrived in the heat of afternoon. Air-conditioned bungalow. A chance to finish the games we started on the bus. 'Eye spy with my little eye'.

Dinner and I'm exhausted but George force feeds me vodka and cokes and takes me to cheesy Turkish disco. Open air tent under an amazing granite mountain complete with ruins, we dance to trashy pop with mad Turks. This is happiness.

Day four

Chimaera - A day swimming in Olympus and wandering the ancient ruins. I snorkel through the caves and find some amazing fish, silver with yellow heads. One that looks like a tiger. Even a sea snake! Yikes! I also think I spy an ancient pot. Can't seem to swim low enough to see closer.

G sunbakes longer and gets a bit crispy. Luckily the Nordic blood stops him getting the traditional British burn, but he is still a bit scarlet.

Gozleme for lunch.

Then a bus ride to the Chimaera and a big hike to the ancient phenomenon. Fires straight from the ground and noone knows why or how it occurs. Stars are incredible. Can see the milky way but miss the southern cross.

Day five

The boat - Travelling today to join the boat. Seems to take more than 4 hours. Turkish time is much slower than London. We stop at Myra the home of St Nicholas. G tried Pide for the first time in his life. Another convert.

We meet our Captain, a pirate. Looks like Turk version of Johnny Depp in Pirates of Carribean. Laze on deck and enjoy ocean breeze. Sail to sunken city, and then wander ancient ruins.

Hike up and then come back stonking hot. I strip down to bikini and dive in, start swimming to the boat leaving the water taxi behind. Look back at shore and wave. 2 seconds later, G has dived in too. We race. I win.

Dinner and a few more Efes. Then we are at Turkish disco, dancing with other boat members.

Back to hot cabin. I pass out with heat. George tries to take me to top deck where it is cool but I can't be woken.

Day six

Kas - Awoke disoriented, hung over and alone. Skulk to top deck and laze in shade of the mast, nursing head while G lays sleeping peacefully. A small dip and then we are on our way. Longest day of sunbaking today. Quite a bit of swimming too.

Stop at Kas for lunch and a shop. George buys an ancient silver tin for his drug habit, and I stock up on jewellery. A few evening beers on the boat. Crew bring out lit up watermelon, and we comandeer the stereo, replacing bad Turkish pop with Bob Marley.

Sleep on top deck under stars. My favourite night, cuddling under a blanket while sleeping outdoors. Hit rough seas. George had some kind of nightmare and nearly pushes me in water but then cuddles for comfort. This is when he whispers those words 'I think the world of you'. Swoon... I could easily slip into the water, and float back to Australia.

As he sleeps, I lay there next to him and think about my fear of commitment. Can't stand the thought of being hurt so it's easy to be with someone that seems to be in awe of me. But can't feel love for anyone. This is as close to the real thing that I can manage at the moment. Had the real thing with the ex, and he couldn't commit and I was in love, but I wasn't happy. Now I'm happy, but not in love. I could be but I'm scared of falling in. Which is better?

Day seven

Butterfly Valley - Breathtaking Mediteranean Fjord. We dived in and we swam to the rocks. Snorkelling. Find more fish.

Then hiked up through the valley to the waterfall. Fresh water, and deliciously cold. We pose for some photos.

G and I have our first argument. Is it the heat? Or does he see through me? He is hurt about some little things he's noticed over the week, but won't spell them out. Apparently I should know. I get mad at the sulking. After a few cigarettes and terse words, things are back to normal. Yet I am rocked after this. Nothing is the same after these types of fights.

Then a gorgeous moment. We spy a butterfly. He kisses my cheek. All is forgiven.

G also sees a strange new creature: a cicada shell! He slowly, carefully, pulls out his camera and gently eases towards the 'cicada' to take a shot. I casually reach out and remove it from the branch, explain it's just the shell. They discard it when they emerge from the ground. He's fascinated.

Cicada is my power animal. I have lived years underground, and when I come out, I will go wild till I die.

Back to Oludeniz and we say goodbye to the boat to travel back to Calis. Resort happily gives us an extra day in the room, free of charge. We take advantage of the showers and the bed, before heading back to Fethiye for final shopping spree.

Purchases:
* Evil eye bracelet
* 2 Necklaces
* Sarong
* Turkish Delight
* Bottle of Raki (for Steph)
* Two cartons of cigarettes (for Steph)
* Two pairs of earrings

Try Turkish coffee and then off to a Hamman. George freaks about the idea of being naked while being massaged by strange men in front of naked women, but I'm quite chilled about it and convince him it will be fine. When we get in there, he is relaxed while I freak out because we are joined by children. I do not want to be naked in front of children. Although technically covered by a turkish towel (think tea towel) there is the danger of slippage.

The bath guys have it all in hand. We lay on a heated stone and sweat sweat sweat. Then we are massaged, doused in cold water, soaked and washed, foamed up and shampooed, cracked and twisted, and finally wrapped in a towel. Come out glowing and chilled.

A walk by the med at sunset, a final meal, G's first baklava, my first Mediteranean fish, and then off to airport and home.