Sandy says:
So where was I?
Did I tell you about the terrible phlegmy cough that I picked up in India? I was hocking loogies like they were going outta style - no let's try that again I was hocking loogies like nobody's business. Now I've never been particularly good at it but with the velocity that I had riding behind those speed balls, I was ready to take both the Indians AND the Moroccans on like it was an Olympic sport. But that was back in Varanasi and just as I got over that one and got over the Nepalese border, my head was on fire but with chills throughout my body and cramps in my legs - So Tom goes and picks up a thermometer from a roadside chemist stall - had to run back and ask the guy how to read that kwality piece of medical equipment. And sure enough if you tip it to a certain angle that mercury was pushing 104F.
Apparently you should race to the hospital at 103F - I didn't feel like I was THAT critically ill but wasn't quite the picture of robust health (and sure enough the thing turned out to be bodgy). And you know when you're sitting there thinking 'Nepal' + 'hospital' you're like 'NOOoo don't make me do it! Don't they butcher people in 3rd world hospitals?' But Tom wasn't taking no for an answer.
So we walk up the wooden planks up the driveway into the Emergency garage where there's a few wooden benches lining the walls and the reassuring odour of disinfectant. The little receptionist lady behind the window who can't speak English indicates the form to fill out and we hand over our 500 ruppees (10 Aussie bucks) which shunts us to the front of the queue cos we're the only paying customers. The doctor was fantastic - had the best bedside manner I've ever known. He shakes Tom's hand as we walk in and all proceedings are then conducted between the two men - I'm just the object of illness. But that was fine - he diagnosed me with the 'flu and told me I'd be over it in a couple of days. Then goes on to advise soup - a good time of year for tomato soup. What he should have said was that the current symptoms would be over with in a day but the bouts of nausea wouldn't see me eat another proper meal in more than a week. And that the various Nepali interpretations of tomato soup don't bear thinking about. But he didn't... and then we went on to discuss the silly British trekkers stuck up the mountain with altitude sickness and the Maoist rebels and the corruption of Nepali politicians ... definitely got our money's worth.
So anyway that put us behind schedule and Gus who was more pushed for time had to start the trek without us. But the day we were set to fly up to Jomsom (a point about
than two-thirds of the way through the Annapurna Circuit) dawned an auspicious day where we woke to the plaintative cries of a yak lassooed around the horns in the courtyard below our room in our guesthouse. And the family in intense debate about the best way to go about slaughtering it, whilst brandishing a rusty sword. Next thing you know the head's lopped off - a sacrifice to the gods for the Divali festival and then the negotiations about how to go about cleaning and shaving the corpse. Then at breakfast a couple of snake charmers charming the pants off a couple of cobras...an auspicious day indeed.
So no sooner are we up the mountain and I'm starting to feel better when Tom comes down with the same illness. We rest up in a little village filled with apple orchards bearing the most delicious apples I've ever eaten and nurse each other back to health on ginger tea and boiled potatoes.
And then the real trekking begins ... the most fantastic mountain scenery and I love the style of wandering from village to village and stopping whenever you feel like
it.
A few observations:
* I can see why marijuana is also known as weed - when it grows wild, it grows EVERYWHERE
* Donkeys, at first are endearing but when traveling in large packs?, herds? a collective noun anyone? anyone? if nobody's got one I'm suggesting 'a stupor of donkeys' when traveling in a large stupor with huge loads on narrow, steep, rocky paths become soo annoying.
* Nepali's have a lot to learn about the culinary arts - the national dish appears to be dal bhat - which is plain rice accompanied by a bland tasteless lentil soup which gives the already image-conscious lentil an even worse name. Once bitten, twice shy.
Our last night was pure heaven as we stumble upon a village with a lush garden oasis and would you believe hot thermal springs pouring into a pool to soothe aching limbs and GOOD FOOD, would you believe?
And then at that point we had to take the escape route outta there cos waiting up on the hill were the Maoist rebels who are in the business of extorting 1200 ruppees
from each foreigner doing the Annapurna Circuit - for which you receive a receipt - which bemused most of the tourists we met. Unfortunately we'd already blown out our budget - something you don't wann do too badly when all you're buying is food, water and shelter. So we had to say 'see you later suckers' to the Commie bastards and shave another day or 2 off the end of the trek. I know we don't exude the hardcore trekking image but 1 week in the wilderness was enough.
And then on the way back to Pokhara we get shuffled from 1 mostly full bus onto a jam-packed overflowing bus. Took 1 look inside and said to the other tourists - 'better off travelling on the roof' - once you've tried the advantage in comfort there's no turning back which amused many of the villagers we passed, seeing a bunch
of tourists travelling on the roof since it's usually the way the local boys travel. Is there any better way to take a busride through the Himalayas? I don't think so.
So that's how we came to be in the Himalayas. Back there in London we were thinking 'Kashmir or Nepal?' Kashmir or Nepal? That's one battle Nepal is happy to have won and so are we!! Thanks for all your concern about whether we were among the thousands of casualties in the earthquake. Luckily our numbers didn't come up this time. And Jessa - as we say in Australia 'You're a deadset legend!' I was flattered to be summoned by the king to have a word on the royal telephone with Little
Johnny 'Yeah - we're fine - we'll be home in time for tea on the 11th ... and what the bloody hell are you still doing there - I left because of you!'
So off to Kathmandu tomorrow ... see all of you back in Oz real soon
xoxo
Tom says:
Hey - I noticed in Sandy's email she failed to mention that i nearly died!!!
How can she have missed this vital point? It was on the mountain. Or as we (the hard core trekking types) say, 'It was on top side, dude, you know like in high altitudes, like when you're ...' yadda yadda...
I nearly died because I caught Sandy's sickness. I had my money riding on it being different and being the dreaded chicken flu only because i think it sounds funny, but I'm such a wimp when it comes to being sick. I turn into the biggest souk and previously I'd been telling her to stop being such a baby about it and get over it - she'd only had to go to hospital once!.
'I'm sure the rooms are much cleaner inside.' I kept telling as we walked into the hospital. 'They have to be educated about these things. Much cleaner inside.'
We got shoved in a waiting room full of about a hundred curious yet pale faces all staring at us while we all waited to be next to see the only doctor available. Anyway Sandy was fine, he just gave her some antibiotics and gave me some very serious conversation while he managed to ignore the existence of his patient, Sandy, all together.
'The reason there is so much corruption in Nepal is because the politicians want to drive cars like mine. I have a BMW. They're trying to keep up with me.'
'uh huh'
'How could they possibly afford a house like mine without their bribes.'
'Thanks, mate. You've been truly fascinating.'
The pills he gave her seemed to work. I stole them off her when i got it. Imagine your face heavy and feeling like it's sliding off - a cough so deep it touches hell and makes you talk like the devil and a fever to match the inferno of hell where you feel like you're heading.
Yeah, cool i think I'm up for walking, i said, 'I'm a bloke.'
A day latter I'm vomiting on the beautiful scenery of the Himalayas.
This is where i feel like I'm going to die.
'Just a bit further,' Sandy says, 'We've only got to another 10kms to go.'
The mountains are vertigo above and below me. Clouds are in the valleys and blues skys above. Another puke shoots from my guts. The yaks are bleating and conversation is starting to make sense.
I've got a list of places I've puked on now, my first and personal favourite is Ullaru -Ayers Rock - when i climbed it stoned, in the middle of the day, and bare footed - a good way to get heat stroke and blow chunks on the sacred site.
So if i get a few more natural wonders under my belt (or is that out from under my belt?) i might be setting some kind of new record.
It was then I did decided to steal Sandy's pills.
You can hire Sherpas up there to carry your stuff, and of course I considered this but there's a whole bunch of philosophies that go with this
- I'm giving someone a job/I'm encouraging slavery -
- it's giving them something to do/I'm a lazy bastard -
On the whole though the reason i didn't go with the Sherpa (because i am a lazy bastard) is that the Euros I'd seen marching down the hill holding their professional walking sticks (pointy ones), dressed in their skintight Lycra shorts with their ball sack bouncing (or a nice firm camel's foot bulging for the ladies) while a tiny man stumbling behind them carrying their lorry load of packs. He'd be all bundled together with ropes and bags and have then all strapped to his forehead. The package would be bigger than him and he'd look like an ant carrying a boulder on its head from a distance with two glamour queens marching in front of him discussing the latest prices of fake Gucci handbags.
I guess, somehow, I'd feel like a little uncomfortable letting a little man carry my load, I'm too proud, but looking back i should have. I might not have puked on the mountain and had some pair of glamorous Euros turn their noses up at me as I was doubled over emptying my guts into the most scenic place on the earth. The Sherpa
said, hello.
So i got better, i even gave up smoking, it's been a whole week without a ciggie, and we had a lovely walk down the hill. Very nice views.
Anyway, just though i'd add the little bit about how i nearly died!!!!!
Tom
P.S - Jessa you've suddenly become a star - What a way to be jettisoned into the hearts and minds of so many mums across the globe. Sure, those mum's might not be thinking about us being crushed in an earthquake but they are saying, 'Gosh, that Jessa girl sure is a nice person to have as a friend.' Children are now being subjugated to the story of Jessa and her concern. You're the new cereal box model for
little kids around the world. 'Be like Jessa and you'll go to heaven,' their mothers are saying.
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